Well, if you're going to talk the talk..

Before I decided on the EPIK program to be my employer, I completed a thorough and extensive research process. I looked at teaching programs all over the world, made many of my notorious pro/con lists, and discussed details with people whose opinions mattered to me. And when I finally settled on teaching in Korea with EPIK, I was fairly satisfied with my reasoning. Even though I don't feel like I have spent enough time in Europe, I did not want to teach there at this point. I wanted to experience a culture vastly different than the American lifestyle I had lived my entire life. The Western culture of Europe, although different, felt too similar. South America has many great teaching opportunities, but it was the cultural draw of Asia that the EPIK program had (and the pay that they offered) that really hooked me. I had never experienced true Asian culture, so I concluded that moving to Asia for a year would broaden my view on teaching, education, life and myself. I still believe this. Living here has yet to have a strong negative affect on me, but it has not been with out surprises. I told my friends and family I was moving to Korea. But now that I've been here for two months, I'm starting to realize that I didn't really think about it. Yes, I planned it. I prepared my decision in the precise, thorough way that I make all my big decisions. Yet, I never got past saying "I'm moving to Korea for a year to teach." Before I left home I was able to talk the talk, but I'm starting to realize now that I'm here I need to back that up and walk the walk.

There are aspects of Korea I did not prepare myself for. First of all, the assumption that people are able to speak English where ever you go is a vast and ignorant misconception. Yes, Korean schools have a very strong emphasis on educating their students in English, but this push only really began in the 1990's. So, many adults do not speak English. When I walk in to a restaurant, there might not be a single word of English printed on a menu. And don't even get me started on translation. The grammatical structure of the English language could not be more opposite from the structure of the Korean language. Although Korea does have an alphabet (it is called the Hangul alphabet) instead of characters like the Japanese and Chinese, there are 24 different symbols that represent the consonants and vowels. However, some "letters" are more than one letter when translated to English. For example, "r" and "l" are the same letter in Korean. That is because when translated to English, these symbols are not letters, but sounds. This is also what makes such small words, like "hello", so long in Korean (an-yong-ha-se-yo). Also, when writing words in Korean, the "letters" are grouped in to syllables instead of words. This is where things get tricky, at least for me. First of all, a word can never start with a vowel. If it does, there is a specific symbol that must be placed in front of it so that the word is not written with a vowel at the beginning. If you're still with me after that jumble, it gets more complicated. The "letters" are organized in to syllables, as I said, and each syllable is basically arranged in an invisible box. There are 2-3 "letters" in each invisible box that represents the syllable. The letters can be arranged vertically or horizontally, depending on how they best fit within the imaginary box. Here is an example:

안녕하세요  this is the word "hello" or "anyonhaseyo". The 안 is "an". The circle is the symbol that must proceed a vowel if it is at the start of a word. 녕 is "yong". In this case, as the circle is not at the start of the syllable, it makes an "ng". While the previous syllables were in a horizontal order being read from left, to right, to the bottom character, the next syllable, 하 is simply read from left to right and only has 2 letters. It means "ha". 세 is translated to "se" and lastly 요 is "yo".

So, if that didn't completely blow your mind, then you can probably handle learning Korean. However, after 2 months of studying, I am still constantly in awe of the language complexity. Although I am very much bettering my speaking, reading, and writing abilities, I do not see myself mastering the language any time soon. I am slowly reading signs, menus and price tags, which is helpful. I have learned enough to ask the location of the restroom, the price of an item, and, of course, for beer. I'm certainly improving, but being able to speak the language would vastly improve my day-to-day life here. So many people I interact with do not speak English. Only a few of the teachers at my school speak English, my landlord does not speak a single word of English and the adorable old man I buy groceries from can say about as much in English as a 2 year old.. maybe.

 
Living with the language barrier has been interesting and, at times, difficult, but it has not yet put a damper on my surprisingly sunny disposition. Those who know me well know that I consider my view on things to be.. realistic. My mother sometimes tell me it is, pessimistic, but I don't always agree. I'm not a free-loving, 60's-esk optimist, but I'm not often a Debbie Downer. However, the challenge Korea presents has morphed my realistic thinking to have a stronger hint of optimism. I've enjoyed it.

The other difficulty that I did not prepare myself was how I would be viewed and received by the Korean people. I mean, to many of the elderly generation, they've already seen a great deal of white people come into their country in attempts to "help". And, in their minds, that goal was not necessarily accomplished. There is a decent amount of resentment in the older Koreans towards Americans and, as it usually goes in Korean cultures, that view has been passed down to the younger members of families as familial doctrine. I did not expect to be stared at on the subway for having light skin and brown hair. I in no way prepared myself for kids in the streets hold their fingers up to their nose emphasizing how big my nose is in comparison to their flat noses. I've literally watched people stumble craning their necks to look back and stare at me. Korea is one of the most homogeneous countries in the world. The population of South Korea is about 96% Korean, so to say I stick out is far more than an understatement.

Koreans, in general, hold a very firm stereotype about Americans. Unfortunately, anyone with white skin is often thought to be American, even if they aren't. And anyone with white skin carries a terrific stereotype with their skin color (sense the sarcasm there). White men are constantly drunk, loud, and fighting. White women are constantly stupid, laugh loudly, and want to sleep with Korean men. Now, while aspects of these traits might be true for some Americans here, clearly they are not true for all of us. Not EVERY old Korean woman will push you out of her way on the subway, even though most will. Not EVERY business man will be drunk on soju by 7 PM, although most will. And, in the same respect, not EVERY white person is American and not EVERY American is a drunk, stupid, sexually charged mess. I do my best to try and break the stereotypes my nationality has been given. If you have ever traveled abroad, you know that pretty much every country already looks down on America. While I in no way foolishly believe that I can break my countries reputation single-handedly, I can at least hope to foster my own good reputation and, maybe, better that of my country as well.

I kept saying I was going to move to Korea. "I'm going to Korea.. I'm moving to Seoul to teach English".. but I never wrapped my mind around what that really entailed. After being here a while now (happy 2 month anniversary, Korea!) I'm finally starting to realize what I really signed up for. I'm not regretful or discouraged. I'm also not singing from the rooftops claiming perfection. However, I'm embracing the challenges and differences in this adventure as they rear their ugly heads. Bring it, Korea. I'm walking the walk!